motion stop

As you might have noticed, my life is never boring. There is always something going on.

As such it's time to announce that another adventure has popped up and that the Thailand one will be done for the time being. I do hope to return soon.

I shall miss most of all the kids, the food, the weather and the calm. My favorite: rice soup with vegetables, Oishi green tea with honey and lemon (and banana pancakes, though not in the picture).

Return to sender

I'm going back to Thailand today. I was going on the cheapest rate possible, meaning taking the bus back to Bangkok(17/18dollars). Then I was informed that the bus takes 15 hours. 15! I've done that much and more on a bus, I mean, I did go from Latvia to Russia on a bus. However, that bus did not include karaoke music blasting my ear drums away nor did it include a Jackie Chan film in Cambodian loud enough for the astronauts to hear. Besides since I already blew off my budget I might as well have a bit of confort. So this afternoon I'll be back in Thailand, yay for me.

Back in Phnom Penh

It was yet another painfully long bus ride. It was supposed to be 7h long but thanks to the great access into the capital it took 8h35m. 8 hours and 35 minutes of Cambodian karaoke music, oh joy.

After talking to another traveler I decided to try out the lakeside area of this strange capital. It took some shopping around, I finally decided to stay in The Drunken Frog for 3$. The room is more than shabby, it's weird as well. I hope that tomorrow after going to the Thai embassy I can go to another area or hotel. It's fine if you want to save money but let's just say that I'll be sleeping on my sleeping bag...

The lakeside area is the closest to a backpacker area there is. As a result there are tons of tuk-tuk drivers around but you do get to see some locals houses in between the guesthouses. Several places have rooms from 2$, some include a very nice view. If you manage to forget everything else you'll be happy.

Apparently there is a street party in the neighborhood tonight, it sounds nice but I'm not sure I can stay awake.

Leaving Vietnam - Cambodia here I go

Saigon connection.

I must admit my failure with my budget plans. I spent almost twice as much as I wanted too. Never fall in love, people, never fall in love. Even my trick of taking a night bus to save on hotel costs didn't help much. I really have to get couch surfing working again.

I leave for Cambodia today and I should stay there at least a week while preparing my visa for Thailand. The Cambodian visa is done on arrival, I expect queues. I read that in mid-April there is a festival, I hope there aren't too many crowds.

I leave you with some photos of Vietnamese food:

Elephant ear fish. I didn't see any ears or anything resembling it so the name escapes me.

Chicken with fish sauce (delicious!)

I don't know how this is called but you get a mix of herbs, meat cooked with sugar cane and rice paper to wrap it. It's very good. There are a couple of dishes here that require a mix of herbs, it's quite a nice experience. I hope I'll return soon to Vietnam.

Some tips to travel cheaply in Vietnam

Bargain. Smile. Bargain (remember that honest people deserve to be paid for their work and how much the product is in your home country, I've seen people argue fiercly over 0.25E).


Eat on the street stalls and "snack bars" instead of restaurants. It's also usually more authentic.


In hostels and hotels (hard to tell the difference sometimes) take a fan room instead of an AC one. The difference is small, from 12 dolars to 9 for example, but it's in the little things that you save.
Before taking up the room ask if breakfast is included. Not included? Ask if it can be. See if they have free internet for guests.


Team up with another backpacker for part of the way, you can split the room costs and other stuff. Check if you get along with the person, if you like them otherwise you'll go crazy. Check if they don't snore. I have a 3 second rule: I look into someone's eyes and count to 3, if for some reason I feel I can't trust them or don't like them - no matter how nice they are, no matter how logicallly it doesn't make sense - I stay away.


Get a open bus ticket. It's a great system they have here, you pay around 25e for a trip from Hanoi to Saigon (see in the map, it's a big trip) with stops on the way. You can choose where to stop and when, there are no dates on the ticket, if you like a place you can stay for weeks, if you don't like it you can leave on the following bus. I am using the one from Sinh cafe (there are sooo many fake sinh cafe, it's ridiculous).


At the end of the day see if it's worth saving those 2e, if it's something you can't get back home, if it's something you always wanted to do etc Because even if they are overcharging you, it's still going to be a lot cheaper than back at home. If you have some tips I overlooked, by all means let me know.

Budget in Vietnam

I keep getting questions about my travel budget so here goes. First I imagine 50e a day with lodging, food and transportation included. Then when I see the gross total and freak out I divide that by 2. That would mean something like 30 days in Vietnam at 25e a day: 750e.
Easy, right? except that I don't have that.

So I have a look at the Lonely Planet guide and came with 150 dollars plus 100 dollars for emergencies. Yes, that's all I have with me. If something happens I can always use my card but since I have to live off my money for a year I don't want to do that.

Because the trip was a bit on the short notice side I didn't use couch surfing but I hope to do that in Cambodia. So I am staying in a 8 dollar hotel in the old town, I eat in the streets, I take the buses that take hours instead of the express ones. Yes, some without A/C.

Another way to save is to take the night bus/train. I will do that tomorrow evening. I am going to spend the next 5 days in a bus, going from Hanoi to the South of the country. I don't even like buses, this is how short my budget is. I will tell you if all this worked.

Another thing that I try to include in the budget is internet and if it's really cheap, laundry (it was 0.20e in my hotel so I figured...).

Despite being on a tight budget I don't want money to be what rules my travels, I refuse to argue with a driver or a shop owner for what is basically a few Euro cents. So not worth it...

For reference:
1.00EUR = 23.705.67 VND(Vietnamese Dong).

1 water = 5000 to 15000 depending on how touristy is the area.

Ko Samed

My first holiday in Thailand was in the small island Ko Samed.

Look at that sand, look at that sea!

I had a great time as you can imagine.

Eating freash watermellon at the beach: paradise.

Ko Samed is not very turisty but it is more expensive than small town Thailand where I live.

I am totally in love with this pier, it's half palm tree, a quarter rubber and a quarter holes...

Snorkling for a whole day is great but can lead to the below photo:

It's been over 10 years since my last sunburn, I didn't miss it at all.

Aparently it's my new tradition

As expected, my flight is delayed. I don't want to sound paranoid but it's been over a year since one of my flights departured on time.

I am flying with Air Asia, supposedly the cheapest way to fly around SE Asia. this is so typical, I go for the cheap stuff and always wait around like an idiot.

A tiger of a day - pt I

Saturday night the five Italians cooked pasta and allowed me and two brits to relish on it. Then one of them mentioned the fact that on the next day at 6 am they were going to take some teenagers to a tiger sanctuary. I jumped at the opportunity. Little did I know what I was getting myself into (I never do...).

I woke up at 5h45 after going to bed at 1 am. It was hard getting up but not impossible. Valentina (from Florence) told me the kids were late. I went around the village taking pictures, it was the perfect setting: the streets were empty, the light was good, it was still fresh so I actually didn't sweat. At 7h30 I was still waiting. The Baan Unrak bakery was still closed. I layed down on the floor using my backpack as a pillow and waited some more. (for those of you who say I am not patient..) At 8h they arrived. Then Valentina and Iacopo (also from Florence) noticed that the brakes were failing, that the oil was dripping on one of the tires and that the fuel tank was on empty. A real riot. We waited for the second car as we had too many kids. We left Sangkla at 8h20.

The first gas station was of course out of gas. At least of diesel, not sure about the rest. We headed to the tiger temple (name of the sanctuary) hoping to find another station along the way. The second car (with brakes and gas) flew past us and we got separated. We called them but there was no connection... Nice start.

One good thing about living in a village in the middle of nowhere is that the locals are used to making do while being isolated, as such some little road restaurants/snack stores have little gasoline tanks. Usually around 20l of each type. We only managed to get 15l in to our car. Thankfully the others noticed we were missing and came back.

Here is the "gas station".

And we were off for the 3rd time. We dropped off a girl to visit her parents and arranged to pick her up later. Another girl was throwing up so she came in front with us and we were on our way for the 4th time. Only then I was informed that no one knew the way, only a rough idea. Yay... We passed the checkpoints easily - usually in Thailand when you go out of a distric your passport gets checked - which considering some of our kids don't have ID or passport was really lucky. Then the orphanage's director called to say we had to arrive before 12h otherwise the kids had to pay. It was 11h35.

After asking for directions and trying to fly the kids started screaming and hitting the car. Apparently we had passed it. We turned the car and drove back. We saw two wooden tigers on each side of the gate, we cheered! We made it! As our car was going in the kids hit the car again. Iacopo comes to the window and says "ooops, this is not the place"...





Paolo's car was arriving as we turned away from the wooden tigers. I could almost hear him swear in Italian... A few minutes later we found the right place:

The crucial moment. When we entered the sanctuary's grounds.

Of course we were 35 minutes too late and the kids were supposed to pay 500BTH along with the 5 volunteers. There was no way we could afford 32 tickets.Yes, we had 27 kids. The cashiers suggested to return on the next day as it was free for Thais, we explained where we came from. Showed a letter from our home, practically begged. They knew our place but rules were rules. The letter mentioned a different tiger place and mentioned 18 kids and not 27... Then out of the blue while we were negotiating between us if we could afford to pay for the kids, the lady in charge of the tiger program said that the kids' tickets would go into their relief program and that we only had to pay for ours. It was extremely nice of her. We had 18 kids paid for, paid for the rest and finally entered. No one cheered, we were tired.

We walked around a bit until we found one monk (the sanctuary is run by Buddhists monks and that is why we have to dress conservatively) walking around with a huge tiger on a leash. Insane. The workers told us to walk in a line and that we would all get our picture with the tiger, if we wanted too. Some kids walked away as soon as they saw the tiger. I went ahead thinking the monk would be holding the leash or something. But no, see below:

How insane is this? One hand tapping the tiger, the other holding the leash... I'm pretty sure my life insurance would not cover any accidents.

And here I thought, "no need to turn around, dude..."

More on our tiger day tomorrow as this post is going on forever...

Hard life

The school will be closed from March 18th until May 1st. Actually May 12th but the teacher are asked to return earlier. So from the 18th until the 15th I have a visitor, then on the 26th I go to Vietnam (Hanoi) to visit a friend who will return to Europe on the 30th. From the 30th onwards I travel around Vietnam. Yay for me.

To enter Vietnam you need a visa, you can do one online now at http://www.vietnam-immigration.org for 20dollars. Then you give the letter at the airport and get a stamp for 25dollars. And tah dah, 30 day visa.

I am looking for the cheapest flight and will soon chase down couchsurfers for accomodation. According to my guide I can live with around 25dollars a day in Vietnam, we'll see...

Thailand: the visa questions

It's hard to explain this bit, actually. Being from an EU country I can for sure say that Thailand is a bit complicated. It's almost impossible to get a "one year visa" which is exactly the one I needed, right? So my only option is to do several "normal visas" that are valid for 2 months, and I get do a 30 day extension in some office in Thailand. Then I have to leave the country and ask for a new visa. Not the cheapest way either...

So today I went to the embassy and did a 60 days tourist visa, that I will extend when I'm already in Thailand. After 3 months I'll go to Laos and do a new visa. Not that I mind traveling around, I don't. It's just papers and feeling ripped off that I don't like.Oh well, no country is perfect.

I can pick up my visa already today. Yay! I think it's low season because it usually takes 5 working days.

ah, if you're planning to visit :P a less than 30 day visit doesn't require a visa.

I only need a couple of blouses that can handle tropical weather, a water filter and lots of photos (2 per visa) and I'm all set!

Thailand: packing for year

As requested here is (clothes aside) what I'm taking to Thailand. This was prepared thinking that I will live at least a year in a tropical country, next to a lake and a jungle. Also I will be leaving the country at least every 3 months to renovate my visa.

It's hard to plan for a whole year but clothes wise you take less than for a holiday because you'll be washing it or buying local products that are even cheaper in Asia. It's the rest that takes up space.

In case the photo isn't very clear, here is a list:

• 1 Nikon D40 + waterproof Crumpler bag + 1 extra batery + 1 usb cable + 4 giga memory card + battery charger.
  

• 1 tripod - this tripod was bought thinking that I will walk around with a backpack so it's the most pratical and not absurdly expensive I could find.

• 1 DEET impregnated mosquito net (it is a malarial area).

• 1 Lafuma sleeping bag - in the school I'll have a bed however for the traveling around, staying with couchsurfers, or hostels a sleeping bag is very useful. In Russia I slept on a sleeping bag for the duration of my stay. Also I'm prepared for a guest. This is the lightest sleeping bag there is, ideal for the heat of Asia and for carrying around.

• 1 waterproof Thailand map - a nice xmas present.

• 1 basic first aid kit - Mostly for cuts, bruises and twisted wrist or ankle.

• 1 swimming suit - Eat your heart out.

• 2 pairs of flip-flops + 1 pair of trekking sandals - one for walking, one for the bathroom, one for walking around the house.

• 1 microfiber towel - it's super absorbent, ideal for backpackers. I've had this one for more than a year, even took it to India. Once in Thailand I'll get a local one and use this one exclusevely for traveling.

• 40$ - Forty Dollars - In case of emergency or in need of paying a bribe, dollars are always handy.

• 1 pencil case holder - I always need a pen plus I'll be a teacher now.

• 2 mosquito repelents - one with DEET, one natural.

• 1 padlock - I can strap my suitcase to the bus/train, I can lock it in the hotel etc

• 1 waterproof document/paper holder. Does rain season ring a bell?
  

• 1 passport case - after seeing my passport bend strangely in Russia I bought this little hardcase.

• 1 raincover for my backpack

• 1 pocket knife

• 3 compression sacks - I'll have a lot more space in my suitcase and bag, especially good for dirty laundry.

• 1 secret pocket for money and documents.

• 3 pacsafe locks, 1 with combination

• 10 envelopes

• 4 copies of my passport - to be spread around my stuff and myself.

• 1 toiletry eagle creek bag - with a mirror and that I can hang up anywhere.

• 1 blues harp - I sooo need to practice.

• 5 notebooks

• 1 little bag/wallet

• 1 hat (with UV protection, I didn't even know it existed).

• 1 Astérix agenda

• 1 old laptop - the screen doesnt even stand up for itself. Good for pictures, teacher stuff as tests and activity sheets, for my music, for watching a film when I'm bored and to go to the Internet.

• 1 north face backpack - it will glued to me all times since it will have my documents, money, camera etc

• 1 cheap Nokia phone that will have a Thai SIM card + charger

• 1 dynamo flashlight - it doesn't need batteries nor electricity, you just wind it up.
  

• Others: lots of pens/pencils, some teacher stuff such as activities books/sheets, a deck of cards, trekking biscuits (with high energy level for when my stomach cramps up or when I'm trekking), some books, my little personal pharmacy (stomach, flu stuff), vitamins (I'll be living a vegetarian lifestyle)
  

• Clothes: I haven't prepared this part yet but I have a general idea:

• 2 pairs of light trousers, one becomes a pair of shorts
• 2 pairs of shorts
  
• 1 pair of sport shoes
  
• 12 t-shirts, some are super light and absorb sweat
  
• 16 pairs of underwear and socks
  
• 1 pair of sunglasses
  
• 1 jacket for the evenings
  
• 1 waterproof jacket
• 2 skirts
  

And before you ask, no, I am not rich (I wish! - I'd travel a lot more!), some of these things like the backpack, clothes etc I had already since I do move around quite a bit. Stuff like the mosquito net I bought for my trip to India (also the same vaccines) and the rest I bought thinking of Thailand. I worked for the last two years thinking I should save for travelling. It also helps that Asia is a cheaper continent than Europe (for the most part). The most expensive thing will be having to leave the country every 3 months, with new visas, airline tickets, a hostel if I can't find someone to host me, buying my own food as opposed to eating at the school etc

I'm not complaining, I chose to do volunteer work but have a look at the "help out section", I don't just ask for money but also goods, as well as a place to stay while traveling, a meal etc I'm also prepared to work for that money, if you're hosting me I can cook and clean, if you're in another country I can be useful via email. Just have a look. Even a shout-out if you're in the area (or not) is included in the help out section. You can also donate books or buy waffels to help the library I'm setting up for the Baan Unrak school.

Have you travelled in the area? Tips are welcome!
Have you travelled extensively in a certain area or country? Again, tips are welcome.
Any comments or questions: email or comment.

Help a volunteer: give a book, buy some waffels

As you know I'm off to do volunteer work in the middle of nowhere in Thailand so I'm gathering up funds to support my year there. However I am genuinely trying to help those kids and the Baan Unrak school/orphanage. While checking out their new website I noticed their wish list. The wish list includes things like:

• "A Dump truck- 310,000 B (USD $890) To transport food supplies, construction materials and even take the children to school when bad weather makes the road to the house very difficult to travel on with normal vehicles."

• "Housing for the boys aged 12 years and older- 4,000,000 B (USD $114,000) ...Their current housing (constructed from bamboo) is in very poor condition; leaking badly and very unstable. We require funding to build a new living area for them."

• "Electricity Supply Line- 900,000 B (USD $25,700) ...Due to the location of the house (far from the main road) the electricity company will not provide a supply line; we have to pay for this ourselves. The current connection is very poor and results in frequent power cuts. With the funding above, we could install a safe, reliable electricity supply to Baan Unrak."

• "Library- 50,000 B (USD $1,400)
  We are short of reading resources for education and pleasure. We would love to have a library so that the children could broaden their horizons and foster a love of reading that will stay with them throughout their lives."

As a former literature student the idea of kids without reading material is appalling, as such I am committed to help them out. I myself am donating a box full of books but I need your second-hands books, your "I didn't like it all that much" books, your "I bought for uni" manuals etc

Baan Unrak not only has orphans but also refugees from Burma, that means young adults as well as mothers who can't get jobs and are trying to get vocational training and English lessons. So all books are most welcomed, not just children's books.

If you have any books or reading material IN ENGLISH that you can donate, please contact me as I am working out a cheaper way to transport things to Thailand. So far the cheapest I could find thanks to a friend is around 500e for 7 boxes of books. So after clearing your library and telling me where to pick it up how about buying a box of waffels to help pay for the transport? It's 10e a box with 20 waffels per box. Surely you can eat that! Or you display it at a children's party...
Looks good, doesn't it? You know you want it... :) 20 waffels for 10e. If you're outside of the Benelux area I can ship it as well, don't use your country as an excuse. :)

IMPORTANT UPDATE: I am now working with Children of the forest, another ngo in the same village as Baan unrak. The books will go to Children of the forest.

Back on the market

Yesterday I had a new tennant, today I dont. Damn...

Just I uttered my first complaint

My landlord has found a new tennant and he's interested in buying the bed, the closet and the table. That means I can stop running home to show the place and worrying if it looks tidy. It's all happening very fast, isn't it? I mean, the first of February is just around the corner...

Not so easy

One thing I dont like about showing my appartment around is having to run home so there is still some light out when people arrive, having to always check in the morning if the place is not chaotic and people not calling back when they say they will.

One visitor was more interested in my stuff than in the appartment. I wont tell my landlord that. Some of you asked why I have to look for someone in the first place. Well, my contract is for 3 years and as I'm leaving before and I dont feel like losing my warranty money I have to find someone to replace me.

I've yet to put my furniture online, I'm still hoping a single person will get the appartment and the closet and bed so I dont have to carry those damn things out.

So far I've sold 5 rough guides. I still have the Spain and the Cambodja ones on the slot. The Spain was used but looks new, the Cambodja has never been used.

I have a also not used dvd recorder and comics. Most books will go to the oxfam bookstore. I think oxfam will love me for a very long time after I drop yet another suitcase full of books.

How is it that such a small appartment has so much? I have to remember how much everything cost to then make a fair price, it's not always easy. Two days ago I froze when a lady asked me how much I wanted for my bar, all I could manage to say was 'eeuuh... Can I call you tomorrow on that one?' Great impression.

I'm not worried though. It's going to be fine, what I cant sell I'll give away and I'll have a great year and laugh at my preparation franticness.

Selling most of my stuff

Not sure if it's a good thing how their price has gone down since I bought them...

Ticket to Thailand

Yes, yes, yes! I've bought a cheap ticket - one way. I leave on the 1st of February 2009. The cheapest I could find was with Etihad airways, 450e.

Help out!

Are you reading the blog and felt a strange urge to reach out? Here's how:

• Well, first please feel welcome in my blog and if you're enjoying it gimme a "shout-out".
• If you're in one of the Thailand's border countries consider lending me your couch (I am a member of the Couchsurfing community) for a night or two.
• If you're far away and have 5e or 5$ extra laying around please consider giving it to the children of the forest project, sponsoring a child or buying some traditional Burmese clothes (photos coming soon).
• Send those extra 5e/$ to me in return for (pick one or more):

Why should you? I mean, I bet you're thinking: "Thailand is cheap"... indeed it is but the visas are not and I will need one every 3 months if I want to stay a year. I'll need about 200e each 3 months - for each visa and subsequent extention, money for a ticket for a neighbouring country, food, money to pay off the mafia... oh and did I mention I am going to do a volunteer project hence not being paid? Oh yeah. Did you always want to help a volunteer but never knew how? In exchange for those 5e/$ I can provide you with ne or more of the following:

1. a super duper postcard
2. a post with a theme of your choice (if it's weird stuff I might just create a blog for it and not publish it here, my grandma sees this, ya know!)
   
3. always wanted to go to a part of Thailand or close by but cant afford it? Ask me to visit it and send you pictures and a personalized account.
4. buy a few of my pics, check out the blog and flickr, the resolution will be much better, trust me. I'm no professional photographer, that's for sure but maybe, just maybe that gives it a bit more charm?
5. I speak Portuguese, French, English, some Latvian and I understand Spanish even though I havent spoken it in ages. I am going to learn Thai soon, do you need some translating? If you want written Thai, considering the 96 letters and its insane caligraphy, please return in a few years.
6. You're in my little town and hate normal touristy things? I'm a very cheap guide.
7. I can prepare your track lists for your parties/gatherings - from classical music, 70's, 80's,90's, rock, punck, pop, hip-hop...
8. Are you visiting Portugal or one of the countries I've visited? How about an itinerary? Just tell me your budget, your interests etc
   

Just so you have an idea:

20E/$ can pay for a whole day in Asia: a hostel (only when I can't find a couchsurfer), tranportation and food together, maybe even one hour in a internet place... or pay off my gambling debts in Bangkok's casinos.
10E/$ 3 meals in one day.
3e/$ a rickshaw(2 way) or a full meal.

Wanna be startin' something?

(there's two possibilities: send to my old Portugueguese account, from my student days, or to my Belgian account, from my slavery days):

acc: 001504672787. IBAN: BE67 0015 0467 2787 BIC SWIFT: GEBABEBB

or

Nib:003503360009280110022 IBAN: PT50 0035 0336 00092801100 22 BIC SWIFT: CGDIPTPL.

Bear in mind that my online access doesnt allow me to see who tranfered the money nor any messages you might write in the transfer so email me (babsynofimdomundo at gmail dot com) so I can thank you and see what I can do for you.