In Siem Riep

I'll always remember this bus drive. I've done 6 hour rides before, even longer ones, however this one was the first with a Jackie Chan movie dubbed in Cambodian with the volume as high as it could get. If you want to travel cheap in Cambodia prepare for no Ac buses and karoke tunes, not good ones either.

It looks like I'll be in Cambodia for a few days

Outside Bangkok things are quite calm, almost as if nothing is happening in the capital I've been told. However since I need to go through the capital in order to get to my little town I'll wait until things have calmed down.

Tomorrow morning I am going to Siem Riep, north of Cambodia, where the Angkor Wat ruins are. It should be crowded because of the Khmer New Year so depending on how I deal with that I'll know how long I'm staying. Ideally I would be back here in the capital Thursday or Friday to do my Thai visa but we'll see. Is it still tourism when you don't want to stay in the country but have to?

Cambodia is just too hot and I am finding the capital hard to manage in the heat. Hopefully the countryside will make up for it. Despite the heat and the confusion, I found the Royal Palace amazing, if you visit it count at least one hour inside.

And the protests still

I just saw on the news that the protesters invaded the Interior Ministry and the government was forced to declare a state of emergency. It's really a shame, the economy is going to be hit again.

And no I didn't choose an insane country to live in, s*** happens everywhere plus no Westerners are being targeted or something like that.

Rest assure that I am not going to Bangkok until all is normal. I am starting to feel like I have no choice but to stay in Cambodia, it's the New Year, it's the closed embassies and now protests...

Regarding the new protests in Thailand

Maybe you haven't even noticed but there were some new protests against the Thai government. About 2000 supporters of the ex-PM managed to disturb the Asian summit that was being held in Pattaya. Pattaya is also a massive tourism area. Those protesters are a smart bunch.

Basically in 2006 the Prime Minister was ousted with charges of corruption. Those charges are still pending. He happens to be a rich man and is now living abroad. He has supporters and so does the new government. He and his party want new elections (and amnesty for his crimes, I'm sure), the current government doesn't. That's about it. What you don't see is the cost of these protests in a poor country. I'm hoping it will stop soon but I don't think so.

Stuck?

First I didn't want to come to Cambodia, I mean I always wanted to visit the country but I was so in love with Vietnam that I wanted to stay there. However Vietnam is expensive and I decided to come to Cambodia to do my visa for Thailand and go back before my budget exploded further.

As soon as I get to Cambodia I was informed that it's the Khmer New Year so everything is closed all next week. That means I have to stay in Cambodia two weeks instead of one and that maybe I won't get to Thailand in time for my school's seminar. Plus I have to stay in time of holidays when most people are not working and things are closed. Oh fun.

I still have to decide where to go in Cambodia, most people will be in the Angkor ruins as from tomorrow and as much as it sounds interesting to see the Khmer New Year, I can't even begin to imagine the crowds.

In Phnom Penh, Cambodia

I arrived yesterday and I can honestly say that I am tired of buses. And bargaining. Today I am taking the day out. No tourist sights, no haggling.

Phnom Penh is a city in the middle of being small and cute and being big and confusing. The traffic is less than in Vietnam but still requires you to advance slowly and carefully.

Photocopied books are everywhere again, oh joy.

It's hot and humid, I'm drinking water like I was drinking vodka in Latvia.

P.S. I tried to upload pictures, I really did. All I got was a eletric shock and an error message.

Leaving Vietnam - Cambodia here I go

Saigon connection.

I must admit my failure with my budget plans. I spent almost twice as much as I wanted too. Never fall in love, people, never fall in love. Even my trick of taking a night bus to save on hotel costs didn't help much. I really have to get couch surfing working again.

I leave for Cambodia today and I should stay there at least a week while preparing my visa for Thailand. The Cambodian visa is done on arrival, I expect queues. I read that in mid-April there is a festival, I hope there aren't too many crowds.

I leave you with some photos of Vietnamese food:

Elephant ear fish. I didn't see any ears or anything resembling it so the name escapes me.

Chicken with fish sauce (delicious!)

I don't know how this is called but you get a mix of herbs, meat cooked with sugar cane and rice paper to wrap it. It's very good. There are a couple of dishes here that require a mix of herbs, it's quite a nice experience. I hope I'll return soon to Vietnam.

Small detail I neglected to mention

In all my days in Vietnam I've seen many pirated CDs, DVDs and even books, it's quite common in Asia but Vietnam seems to overdo it. I've heard Cambodia is worse, I'll let you know.

My only problem with this is that I've been trying to buy a book by a Vietnamese-American called Catfish and Mandala and I can't find a non-photocopied version. Even in normal bookstores they sell photocopies. Same, same? (expression used in part of SouthEast Asia to say it's the same or almost the same, they can't say it only once...)

In case you don't know, I've built up the tradition of buying a book of a local author in every country I visit. It doesn't mean it's a strict rule, by the time I visited the UK I had already read most British classics but I do try to get a book from a native in a language I can read, usually it's English. I couldn't do it in Estonia and Slovakia and Vietnam is making me run for it.

Mekong Delta

We started the day quite early in order to be in Cai Be's floating market on time. We were ready at 7.20 am but the bus left almost an hour later. Vietnam guides and buses have a strange system where you are given different pick-up times regardless of the departure hour, two girls from the same hotel were given two different departure times for example.

I tried to sleep during the morning ride but at one point the guide Leng started cracking jokes and gave us some history notes. I caught something about Vietnam's sacred animals being the unicorn, the dragon, the turtle and the phoenix and something about the driver racing motorbikes, getting arrested and now being called Alonzo like the F1 driver.


We took a boat around the market in Cai Be. The floating market is pretty self-explanatory except that I think we arrived too late, when there wasn't much to see. Plus it was raining. I liked the idea of putting up a high bamboo stick on the boats to show what you are selling, we saw pumpkins, potatoes and fruit being shown off like that. See the sticks on the below photo:


After the market we hopped on to smaller boats and took pictures with the traditional hats. Somewhere in Europe or Asia is where mine is. I am starting to reconsider my career in politics with all these photos around the world.

By the time we got some food everyone was starving. We cycled around the village and rested a bit in hammocks. If you come and visit the area I recommend stepping away from guides and tours and setting off alone or with another traveller. You can also enter Cambodia by boat which is pretty neat. The nature is stunning as it has been all over Vietnam.

Hangoverish in Saigon

The quest for a computer with a USB entry has started again. I will try to show pictures from Saigon as soon as I can.

Yesterday I went to the Mekong delta. It has to be the biggest river I've seen so far. I'll tell you more about it once the pictures are up. I met a lot of nice people on the boat and we ended up having dinner and drinks together. Then somehow we decided to find Saigon's famous nightlife - it has been complimented all over. We found the club Apocalipse Now (they love irony...) and started dancing away. I was particularly happy when they played "Zombie" and then at TWO IN THE MORNING the club closed. Great nightlife, people.

Now if you don't mind and I'm sure you'll understand, I need water and food. Urgently.

Tired in Saigon

The bus left at 7.30 am and I was supposed to get off at Mui Ne. However after having a quick look around I decided to continue my journey until Saigon (not it's called Ho Chi Minh). The bus arrived one hour later, mostly due to the insane traffic of this city - that means 11 hours in a bus. I took a hotel room right next to the bus stop, this is why I don't like to arrive at night or tired to new cities. The reception area (where this pc is) smells like kitty litter...

Saigon seems to be more modern and developted than Hanoi. That also means tons more traffic.

Rain in Nha Trang

With heavy rain since last night most of my morning in Nha Trang was spent talking to my Swedish neighbors and watching a film together. I was only able to go out at 13 o'clock.

I didn't particularly enjoy this city but the art gallery of the local photographer Long Thanh made this stop worth it. His gallery is a window into Vietnam's life. I specially like the old women photos, I hope to have one later in life. The art gallery works as a museum in a way, classical music plays while you watch the photos.


We leave for Mui Ne tomorrow morning at 7 (yay, more crazing driving!). The city is famous for its red dunes and kite surfing so I'll have a look at both. If it's as "prepared for tourists" as Nha Trang I don't think I'll stay long.

Some Vietnamese for you:

Hello - Xim chao
Thank you - Cam on

Nha Trang small notes

Only me to get lost in a small city during the hottest hour and to pull a muscle on the same day.

Nha Trang has not inspired me so far, perhaps tomorrow once the painkillers work. It's a bit like the Algarve in Portugal: big buildings, hotels everywhere, shops for the tourists...

After the rain in Hoi An the hot sun in Nha trang is a nice surprise. I had actually forgotten how it felt to walk around with your clothes glued to you. Silly me.

Just wanted to share a proud moment

I just managed to cycle during rush hour in Vietnam. I didn't hit any motorbikes nor did they hit me (I came close once) nor did I run over someone - one fat ass came close to knocking me to the ground but that was it.

For those out of context I learned to ride a bicycle last summer.

Also a few days ago G. taught me how to ride a motorbike. I didn't go past 2nd gear but it was great. Let's hope he remembers to send me the pictures once he's back in Malaysia. Yes, I think he will read this. :P

Nha trang here I go

As you read this I am on one of the seats above on a sleeping bus to Nha Trang. I'm pretty sure I won't be enjoying the ride thanks to the Vietnamese bus drivers. The trip will be over 10 hours long.

Here are some more photos and notes from Hoi An:

This is has to be the town with more art galleries I ever saw. It's just one after the other. It gives so much more colour to the streets to have aquarels all over the place.

For the first time ever I am sorry I am travelling with a backpack, I wanted to buy some silk clothes (in the West we really need to learn how to sow with silk, I've seen gorgeous things here), some engraved chopsticks and bowls and some traditional paper lamps.

Hoi An had Japonese traders, French and Chinese businessmen and while taking in a little bit from all the other cultures has still the singular Vietnamese touch.

I really want to come back again.

Some tips to travel cheaply in Vietnam

Bargain. Smile. Bargain (remember that honest people deserve to be paid for their work and how much the product is in your home country, I've seen people argue fiercly over 0.25E).


Eat on the street stalls and "snack bars" instead of restaurants. It's also usually more authentic.


In hostels and hotels (hard to tell the difference sometimes) take a fan room instead of an AC one. The difference is small, from 12 dolars to 9 for example, but it's in the little things that you save.
Before taking up the room ask if breakfast is included. Not included? Ask if it can be. See if they have free internet for guests.


Team up with another backpacker for part of the way, you can split the room costs and other stuff. Check if you get along with the person, if you like them otherwise you'll go crazy. Check if they don't snore. I have a 3 second rule: I look into someone's eyes and count to 3, if for some reason I feel I can't trust them or don't like them - no matter how nice they are, no matter how logicallly it doesn't make sense - I stay away.


Get a open bus ticket. It's a great system they have here, you pay around 25e for a trip from Hanoi to Saigon (see in the map, it's a big trip) with stops on the way. You can choose where to stop and when, there are no dates on the ticket, if you like a place you can stay for weeks, if you don't like it you can leave on the following bus. I am using the one from Sinh cafe (there are sooo many fake sinh cafe, it's ridiculous).


At the end of the day see if it's worth saving those 2e, if it's something you can't get back home, if it's something you always wanted to do etc Because even if they are overcharging you, it's still going to be a lot cheaper than back at home. If you have some tips I overlooked, by all means let me know.

Still in Hoi An, Vietnam

What can I say? When I like a place, I like a place. Tomorrow I'll just walk around town and perhaps leave the following morning to Nha Trang. Let's hope the rain stops.

The old town is charming day and night.
It is Unesco heritage and it seems to be well taken care of.

Cao lau. Typical from Hoi An. Noodles with pork and coreander, lime leafs and other herbs.

Grilled fish in a banana leaf with onions, garlic and lemon grass. It tasted quited sweet.
It was just a bit on the small side.

Today me and Gene rented a motorbike and went to see a bit of the countryside. It was great. Well, apart from the heavy rain, the insane bus drivers (scary insane bus drivers) and the numbness of our bottoms after a few hours.

It was wonderful. I think I am falling in love with Vietnam.


We went to see the ruins of the Hindu temple of My Son. It is a huge complex with lots of cute benches to rest and enjoy the scenery.

I must say, Vietnam is a great place for my ego, women here keep repeating that I'm beautiful and that my eyes and smile are gorgeous. Funny that it's exactly what I think of them... If you ever come to Vietnam just smile and wait for their return, it will amaze you.

in Hoi An, Vietnam

So far this is my favorite stop in Vietnam. It's only 3 hours away from Hue but it is far more charming. Of course there are more tourists shops but people are nice and not intrusive.

The river side part is just great and if you avoid the big motor boats for tourists you find a small wooden one with ladies that go under bridges like in the photo below:

We took up her offer and it was the highlight of my tourist week. The lady (of only 37 years) turn out to be super nice and funny. We toured the river for about an hour with her telling us about Vietnam before and now. She used to live on a boat and life was difficult, during the rain season it was dangerous. See us below:

Now with money from tourists she managed to get into a small house (that she showed us - it was a bit more than the size of 1 bedroom) and put her two kids into school. She has an amazing laughter, very contagious too. Then it started to rain.

It started to rain like only Asia knows. We hopped onto a bigger boat and sat there and waited for the rain to go. It was great. We made fun of each other, I realized I liked Vietnamese humour and that so far people here are nicer than in Thailand.

This is Gene. A fellow backpacker whom I teamed up the last 2/3 days.

in Hue, Vietnam

The bus from Hanoi took about 14 hours. It was not the best 14 hours of my life. The bus is sort of nice, it's a sleeping bus so the chairs are built for laying down and you get a blanket but considering the state of the roads and the vietnamese driving it was more like being inside a simulator.

Once again the computer is from the Cold War days so I can't post pictures, but they will come soon.

Hue was once the capital of Vietnam (1802-1945) but now has a bit more thn ruins to show for it. It's not a big city and the Perfume river looks nice (and clean - rare in these parts) however the city's charms didn't work on me. I leave tomorrow morning at 8 am for Hoi An.

I met up with a Malaysian guy I met in Hanoi and we took 2 motorbikes around the city to just have a look around. Mostly we saw decaying pagodas, ruins and tombs... Since our hotel is close to the bus station we were harrassed a bit by taxi drivers, for a moment I thought I was in India, but G. handled them very well.

Because the bus ride was so bad (the driver doesn't understand speed limits) I feel very tired, almost like I didn't slept. Hopefully tomorrow will be better.

Will I ever find a computer from this century in Vietnam? oh the suspense.

Perfume Pagoda

Outside of Hanoi there is a complex of over 100 temples and pagodas, that is called the Perfume Pagoda.Even though it was full of sellars (a big culture shock is the way they attract your attention, anything but throwing things at you is allowed. I got yelled at, screamed at, clapped at, grabbed, smiled even "ihuuued" at..) and even though we didn't have as much time in the temples as I wanted I really like it. It makes me really hopefull for the countryside I'm about to see.


In order to get into the complex we have to take a boat. It was actually a long boat ride and the seats were not very comfortable. It was still worth it.



A part I really didn't like was the stairs. We basically went up a mountain on huge badly formed steps. Actually compared to Thailand, Vietnam is the country of stairs. My hotel room is on the 5th floor, the restaurants are always on the 2nd or 3rd and of course the temples and pagodas have to have more than a thousand steps. Way to test the pilgrims...