India

If only I had read Sarah MacDonnald's Holy Cow: An Indian adventure before my trip. If only I had kept in mind that I was supposed to talk to a man only after he talked to me. If only I had learned to bargain before I left. My trip to India seems to be full of "if only".

Our first day was so bad, so tiring and stressful that we called the airline to see if we could return earlier, we couldn't possibly take two weeks of that. And then we did. And then we liked it a bit. But maybe we won't return any time soon. India is famous for its scams, thieves, for its noise and smells and it seems we got all of it on the very first few hours. Looking back I now know that it was because we said in the crocodile area (as a local guide called it) the bad area that doesn't get many tourists. That would, we thought, explain the staring and the attempted gropings. When we first visited the Main Bazar people wanted to sell things but they didn't stop to stare as if we were Columbus fresh from the beach.

I'll always have India stories to share, there was a 60 year old that wanted to marry me, there was a rickshaw with fresh paint (I still have that jacket), the absolute patience with traffic, life, poverty, injustice, bombs, death.. "what do do, madam?". Amazing lesson there. There was also the impossibility of finding an India that said "no", "can you take us there?", "can you tell me where this is?" "am I close? I've been walking for hours"... not a single one will tell you they dont know. There were our nightly hugs celebrating another day alive and well in India, another day without diarrhoea, there were my walks in town alone and arguing with drivers, dodging "tourist guides"...There is an absolute lack of privacy and space, and it scares me to think more babies are being born in India everyday, I have no idea how they are going to cope.

My all time favorite part of India were the temples. Yes, going to a Bollywood film in a filthy, broken down cinema (my chair broke when I leaned back) with men whistling, yelling and clapping was quite interesting but the temples are just amazing. Especially Hindu, Buddist, Sikh and Sufi shrines (though women are not allowed in). I wished our religions were that peaceful, open and relaxed. Then I remembered India is not always peaceful. Besides some temples are just stunning. The so called Muslim aerea was another nice surprise, from tipical appartments and condos we arrived to alleys covered with carpets, so full of people you think you're going into a concert arena, the tiny streets were described in my guide as going back to medieval days, and that only made sense once I was there. No matter how many drivers and guides told us not to go, and refused to go it was so worth the visit. In the Sikh temple in Delhi we sat barefeet among the rest of the Indians, our heads covered (a pirate do is enough), and enjoyed the nice Sufi music. I glanced around trying to hide the huge smile I had on my face, finally calm in India, finally music that doesnt make me cringe... I closed my eyes and took a deep breath. If I ever return to India it will be for moments like these only. By the way, if you are ever in India and are feeling peckish, or just lost all your life savings go to a Sikh temple, they serve 3 meals a day for anyone that shows up, any religion, any caste, any nationality is welcome. Just queue with the rest of the people.

I regret not having more time to do just a "religious road-trip" and that I wasnt a man so I could go anywhere, even Sufi shrines and mosques. My main regret was missing the "qawwali" concert in the Sufi shrine. If you go to India dont miss out. Ask for Nusrat, they'll know what you mean.

I leave you with a quote from Holy cow: "India is beyond statement, for anything you say, the opposite is also true. It's rich and poor, spiritual and material, cruel and kind, angry but peaceful, ugly and beautiful, and smart but stupid." P.123