I arrived in Valmiera in December and in the empty streets all I saw were crows (creepy crows) and lots of snow. After seven months working as a volunteer in a youth center I couldn't stand snow anymore; I was in love with apple pancakes, trekking by the river Gauja; I had litres of vodka in my system (I recomend cramberries'vodka and honey vodka) and I was left with a renewed sense of belief in myself and in that strange universal language of gestures and sounds that got me out of trouble one too many times.
Riga is not you expect, especially the old town. After seven months I was still not tired of its tiny, labirintic streets, of seing women with mini-skirts when it was minus 29 degrees, of its wonderful food... I also enjoyed having a whole hostel for me on more than one occasion and less having a fat snoring Brit on the bed next to me.
For the night life you have to search a bit more than in Western cities but you do find it. I somehow ended up in a undergroung heavy metal club after asking for a beer so keep yourself ready to go in a moment's notice.
Summer was actually very warm (28-30 degrees) and there were so many flowers everywhere, storks, birds singing, I could hardly believe it was the same country that gave me minus 35 degrees. And it's true what they say about the people's reactions to sun, every is much nicer during the summer.
Latvia has so many hidden charms that can dazzle the visitor as well as a few insanities I have only - at least so far - encountered in Eastern Europe. Make sure your luggage is covered by your insurance or wrap it in duck tape is my main advice...
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