Only in Thailand

This is why it took me 3 days to leave Kanchanaburi. Swimming pool with beer...


On our way to Sangkla we stopped to put some gas in and this nice goat, let's call it Molly, showed up and tried to eat our bags.

Molly particularly liked Jessie's handbag. Note to future travellers: screaming "no!" to a goat does not work...

change of plans

I am still in Kanchanaburi. We'll leave Wednesday morning. It's not that Kanchanaburi is that great and wonderful it's just that it has certain luxaries, like a pool, like a bookstore and a whole street full of bars.

I'm starting to think that a person is integrated (whether they know it or not) when they find themselves doing things that make no sense in their own culture without thinking twice. Yesterday I went karaoke singing and after ruining about 6 songs I started having fun. If this does not mean that Asia has gotten under my skin I don't know what does.

Ye of little faith

Those of you that mad fun of me should know that I DID find my room key in the swimming pool yesterday. It was a great moment, I shrieked with happiness.


Tomorrow morning I leave - at last - for Sangklaburi. I don't expect any more bus trips for a while.

It's me alright

So I am in Kanchanaburi, the only big town just before my lovely Sangklaburi. I am with a British friend and her dog and so far so good. We are staying in a hotel outside the center (but they have free transportation) in big bungalows, there is a swimming pool AND a lake. We're only paying 3e. yay.

I was a bit hesitant, thinking I should run back to the village but I must say the whole relaxing in cool water with birds chirpping away is great.

Since I am back in Thailand I went back to swimming with shorts - Thai discretion is not overrated - and I had my room key in my pocket..., do you see where this is going? Well, let's just say that this afternoon I'll be doing some underwater swimming...

It's becoming long way home, isn't it?

I am still in Bangkok, the idea was to go to the Portuguese embassy and a Western supermarket (I want spaguetti so bad it's surreal) and then tomorrow morning head back to Sangklaburi. In the meantime I talked to a friend who is going slightly mad due to boredom. We have decided to meet up tomorrow in Kanchanaburi, it's the closest big town and relax for a couple of days and then hit the bars. We are both out of budget so it should be interesting to see how much we'll manage to do in a couple of days. Who knows maybe I'll learn some nice tricks on how to party without money...

Another 4 hours in a bus then, hopefully without karaoke.

P.S. Don't you just love hotel warning signs? I always wonder what did happen in order to make them put up a sign like that.

Return to sender

I'm going back to Thailand today. I was going on the cheapest rate possible, meaning taking the bus back to Bangkok(17/18dollars). Then I was informed that the bus takes 15 hours. 15! I've done that much and more on a bus, I mean, I did go from Latvia to Russia on a bus. However, that bus did not include karaoke music blasting my ear drums away nor did it include a Jackie Chan film in Cambodian loud enough for the astronauts to hear. Besides since I already blew off my budget I might as well have a bit of confort. So this afternoon I'll be back in Thailand, yay for me.

Is it me?

Through the years I've had some strange events, some weird adventures, even some very surreal experiences. However my stay at The Drunken Frog is hard to describe.

The bathroom is literally sliding down, both the sink and the toilet and leaning so much that you have to repress the urge to run and try and catch it before it crashes.

I got bitten by several things, even sleeping on my sleeping bag.

Because the rooms are all connected by wooden boards (tiny wooden bridges that are over and around the lake) every time someone went past my door my bed shook like it was earthquake time.

Around 23h as I turned off the light and tried to fall asleep the few other guests and the Cambodian family that runs the place decided to start a party. Faithless, Chemical Brothers and the lot dancing the night away. At one point I really did think the floor was not going to take it anymore and I was going to end up in the water. No, I didn't get much sleep.

And I'm sure me staying there also is not working out for the family as one of my first moves was to drop the room key in the lake...

Back in Phnom Penh

It was yet another painfully long bus ride. It was supposed to be 7h long but thanks to the great access into the capital it took 8h35m. 8 hours and 35 minutes of Cambodian karaoke music, oh joy.

After talking to another traveler I decided to try out the lakeside area of this strange capital. It took some shopping around, I finally decided to stay in The Drunken Frog for 3$. The room is more than shabby, it's weird as well. I hope that tomorrow after going to the Thai embassy I can go to another area or hotel. It's fine if you want to save money but let's just say that I'll be sleeping on my sleeping bag...

The lakeside area is the closest to a backpacker area there is. As a result there are tons of tuk-tuk drivers around but you do get to see some locals houses in between the guesthouses. Several places have rooms from 2$, some include a very nice view. If you manage to forget everything else you'll be happy.

Apparently there is a street party in the neighborhood tonight, it sounds nice but I'm not sure I can stay awake.

Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom

Angkor's archeological park was named after the main temple Angkor Wat, it was also the one that historians and archeologists took more interest upon, that helps to explain (I think) why Angkor Wat gets the crowds out of all the temples and citadels. Due to it my visit was a far less nice experience than Ta Prohm.

The sign says "3 possibilities of visit". All will have tons of people in Angkor Wat.

Dear tourists, if you have kids under the age of 10 please leave them at home or don't come until they have a reasonable age. 5 year olds screaming that it's too hot or that everything is boring does annoy the crap out of other travellers. Also, British and Australian girls please read up about Asia before travelling. Bare shoulders, tank tops and short-short shorts are used in Asia only by prostitutes, not ok in temples... Even if they are very old temples. It would be the same as having someone dressed in what we consider prostitude clothing in a Western church. Ah, yes, and whether or not you have those clothes please don't touch the Budha statues as if He's an old friend.

As much as I loved my visits, I wouldn't like to be in one of the temples alone at night. There are long dark tunnels, narrow passages, decapitaded Buddhas and some have bats (you can hear them but not see them, brrrr).

Angkor Thom is/was a citadel, it's hard describing its size: it has one big temple, Bayon, and four small ones withing its walls plus four amazing gates. Apparently it was self-suficient and hosted 1 million people.
So Ta Prohm is my favorite, followed closely by the Bayon.


So ends my 3 day tour of Angkor Wat. I have hundreds more pictures but I am trying my best not to become one of those annoying travellers that comes back with a 650 photo slideshow...

ANgkor Wat: Ta Prohm temple

I woke up at 5 am in order to beat the heat and the crowds. The Ta Prohm temple is outside of town and I had a uncomfortable motorbike ride there. If you can get a tuk-tuk so you can sit down, my ass did not enjoy that ride.

The jungle has slowly and effectively taken over the structure. It adds to the atmosphere. There are also tons of birds chirping away around you.
This was the only temple I could walk around alone and quietly.

After all the temples and citadels I can honestly say that this one is my favorite. I took a lot of pictures, I prefer it when the trees were taking over the space but not all of the temple is like that.I am very envious of the discovers who got to see this in its prime, or at least when it was more in one piece, engulfed by the jungle.

I suppose this wouldn't be pratical in a real house. It's really a shame.


And because some of you got confuse as how I ate snake and crocodile here is a photo of the grill:
There is coal in the bottom and water boiling to cook the vegetables and grill the meat. It was ok but not my best meal here.

Angkor Wat temples during Khmer New Year

I should really create a tag in this blog called "learn from my mistakes" or "think before you go". In it I could include going to a tropical country in its hottest month and drinking beer for breakfast with a Cambodian family.

The black things behind the fruits are fried spiders, the brown things in the front are fried crickets. A local delicacy...

I always wanted to visit Angkor Wat, ever since I was a kid. I don't remember the first time I saw some images or heard about it but I remember thinking it was the most exquisite (I had a very advanced vocabulary for my age) thing on Earth and that I had to see it before I died. And here I am. I've told myself several times I was really here but only after my second day in the temples did I believe it.Thanks to the Khmer New Year (3 day holiday, now it's the year of the Mouse not 2010. Celebrations include throwing water/water fight as water cleanses your sins) the temples are full of people. From all over Cambodia people come to celebrate the New Year, to pray and to make offerings to the monks. So even though the temples are from the 9th - 13th century they are very much still a place of worship. And of drinking apparently.

I was sitting on the floor resting from the 40 degree heat when a local family invited me to join them, I gave them some of my corn and they gave me beer. We talked for more than one hour. They were very curious about the size of Westerners' noses. It was the first time I thought about the topic.

I had snake and crocodile for the first time. Not bad but don't think I'll repeat the experience.

If you come to Angkor Wat (I vividly recommend it) take at least 3 days and try to see temples that are closer together as some are 20km from the city center. Take an extra battery for your camera. Make the sacrifice of waking up early, the temples open at 5am and not only are they emptier then as it's actually cooler. At 7am I was already sweating but it was nothing compared to the sweat at 10am...

Does anyone know the name of this tree? I love it!

Photos of big temples tomorrow, it takes me about 30m to upload 5 photos so by the end of it I'm hungry and well, annoyed.

In Siem Riep

I'll always remember this bus drive. I've done 6 hour rides before, even longer ones, however this one was the first with a Jackie Chan movie dubbed in Cambodian with the volume as high as it could get. If you want to travel cheap in Cambodia prepare for no Ac buses and karoke tunes, not good ones either.

It looks like I'll be in Cambodia for a few days

Outside Bangkok things are quite calm, almost as if nothing is happening in the capital I've been told. However since I need to go through the capital in order to get to my little town I'll wait until things have calmed down.

Tomorrow morning I am going to Siem Riep, north of Cambodia, where the Angkor Wat ruins are. It should be crowded because of the Khmer New Year so depending on how I deal with that I'll know how long I'm staying. Ideally I would be back here in the capital Thursday or Friday to do my Thai visa but we'll see. Is it still tourism when you don't want to stay in the country but have to?

Cambodia is just too hot and I am finding the capital hard to manage in the heat. Hopefully the countryside will make up for it. Despite the heat and the confusion, I found the Royal Palace amazing, if you visit it count at least one hour inside.

And the protests still

I just saw on the news that the protesters invaded the Interior Ministry and the government was forced to declare a state of emergency. It's really a shame, the economy is going to be hit again.

And no I didn't choose an insane country to live in, s*** happens everywhere plus no Westerners are being targeted or something like that.

Rest assure that I am not going to Bangkok until all is normal. I am starting to feel like I have no choice but to stay in Cambodia, it's the New Year, it's the closed embassies and now protests...

Regarding the new protests in Thailand

Maybe you haven't even noticed but there were some new protests against the Thai government. About 2000 supporters of the ex-PM managed to disturb the Asian summit that was being held in Pattaya. Pattaya is also a massive tourism area. Those protesters are a smart bunch.

Basically in 2006 the Prime Minister was ousted with charges of corruption. Those charges are still pending. He happens to be a rich man and is now living abroad. He has supporters and so does the new government. He and his party want new elections (and amnesty for his crimes, I'm sure), the current government doesn't. That's about it. What you don't see is the cost of these protests in a poor country. I'm hoping it will stop soon but I don't think so.

Stuck?

First I didn't want to come to Cambodia, I mean I always wanted to visit the country but I was so in love with Vietnam that I wanted to stay there. However Vietnam is expensive and I decided to come to Cambodia to do my visa for Thailand and go back before my budget exploded further.

As soon as I get to Cambodia I was informed that it's the Khmer New Year so everything is closed all next week. That means I have to stay in Cambodia two weeks instead of one and that maybe I won't get to Thailand in time for my school's seminar. Plus I have to stay in time of holidays when most people are not working and things are closed. Oh fun.

I still have to decide where to go in Cambodia, most people will be in the Angkor ruins as from tomorrow and as much as it sounds interesting to see the Khmer New Year, I can't even begin to imagine the crowds.

In Phnom Penh, Cambodia

I arrived yesterday and I can honestly say that I am tired of buses. And bargaining. Today I am taking the day out. No tourist sights, no haggling.

Phnom Penh is a city in the middle of being small and cute and being big and confusing. The traffic is less than in Vietnam but still requires you to advance slowly and carefully.

Photocopied books are everywhere again, oh joy.

It's hot and humid, I'm drinking water like I was drinking vodka in Latvia.

P.S. I tried to upload pictures, I really did. All I got was a eletric shock and an error message.

Leaving Vietnam - Cambodia here I go

Saigon connection.

I must admit my failure with my budget plans. I spent almost twice as much as I wanted too. Never fall in love, people, never fall in love. Even my trick of taking a night bus to save on hotel costs didn't help much. I really have to get couch surfing working again.

I leave for Cambodia today and I should stay there at least a week while preparing my visa for Thailand. The Cambodian visa is done on arrival, I expect queues. I read that in mid-April there is a festival, I hope there aren't too many crowds.

I leave you with some photos of Vietnamese food:

Elephant ear fish. I didn't see any ears or anything resembling it so the name escapes me.

Chicken with fish sauce (delicious!)

I don't know how this is called but you get a mix of herbs, meat cooked with sugar cane and rice paper to wrap it. It's very good. There are a couple of dishes here that require a mix of herbs, it's quite a nice experience. I hope I'll return soon to Vietnam.

Small detail I neglected to mention

In all my days in Vietnam I've seen many pirated CDs, DVDs and even books, it's quite common in Asia but Vietnam seems to overdo it. I've heard Cambodia is worse, I'll let you know.

My only problem with this is that I've been trying to buy a book by a Vietnamese-American called Catfish and Mandala and I can't find a non-photocopied version. Even in normal bookstores they sell photocopies. Same, same? (expression used in part of SouthEast Asia to say it's the same or almost the same, they can't say it only once...)

In case you don't know, I've built up the tradition of buying a book of a local author in every country I visit. It doesn't mean it's a strict rule, by the time I visited the UK I had already read most British classics but I do try to get a book from a native in a language I can read, usually it's English. I couldn't do it in Estonia and Slovakia and Vietnam is making me run for it.

Mekong Delta

We started the day quite early in order to be in Cai Be's floating market on time. We were ready at 7.20 am but the bus left almost an hour later. Vietnam guides and buses have a strange system where you are given different pick-up times regardless of the departure hour, two girls from the same hotel were given two different departure times for example.

I tried to sleep during the morning ride but at one point the guide Leng started cracking jokes and gave us some history notes. I caught something about Vietnam's sacred animals being the unicorn, the dragon, the turtle and the phoenix and something about the driver racing motorbikes, getting arrested and now being called Alonzo like the F1 driver.


We took a boat around the market in Cai Be. The floating market is pretty self-explanatory except that I think we arrived too late, when there wasn't much to see. Plus it was raining. I liked the idea of putting up a high bamboo stick on the boats to show what you are selling, we saw pumpkins, potatoes and fruit being shown off like that. See the sticks on the below photo:


After the market we hopped on to smaller boats and took pictures with the traditional hats. Somewhere in Europe or Asia is where mine is. I am starting to reconsider my career in politics with all these photos around the world.

By the time we got some food everyone was starving. We cycled around the village and rested a bit in hammocks. If you come and visit the area I recommend stepping away from guides and tours and setting off alone or with another traveller. You can also enter Cambodia by boat which is pretty neat. The nature is stunning as it has been all over Vietnam.

Hangoverish in Saigon

The quest for a computer with a USB entry has started again. I will try to show pictures from Saigon as soon as I can.

Yesterday I went to the Mekong delta. It has to be the biggest river I've seen so far. I'll tell you more about it once the pictures are up. I met a lot of nice people on the boat and we ended up having dinner and drinks together. Then somehow we decided to find Saigon's famous nightlife - it has been complimented all over. We found the club Apocalipse Now (they love irony...) and started dancing away. I was particularly happy when they played "Zombie" and then at TWO IN THE MORNING the club closed. Great nightlife, people.

Now if you don't mind and I'm sure you'll understand, I need water and food. Urgently.

Tired in Saigon

The bus left at 7.30 am and I was supposed to get off at Mui Ne. However after having a quick look around I decided to continue my journey until Saigon (not it's called Ho Chi Minh). The bus arrived one hour later, mostly due to the insane traffic of this city - that means 11 hours in a bus. I took a hotel room right next to the bus stop, this is why I don't like to arrive at night or tired to new cities. The reception area (where this pc is) smells like kitty litter...

Saigon seems to be more modern and developted than Hanoi. That also means tons more traffic.

Rain in Nha Trang

With heavy rain since last night most of my morning in Nha Trang was spent talking to my Swedish neighbors and watching a film together. I was only able to go out at 13 o'clock.

I didn't particularly enjoy this city but the art gallery of the local photographer Long Thanh made this stop worth it. His gallery is a window into Vietnam's life. I specially like the old women photos, I hope to have one later in life. The art gallery works as a museum in a way, classical music plays while you watch the photos.


We leave for Mui Ne tomorrow morning at 7 (yay, more crazing driving!). The city is famous for its red dunes and kite surfing so I'll have a look at both. If it's as "prepared for tourists" as Nha Trang I don't think I'll stay long.

Some Vietnamese for you:

Hello - Xim chao
Thank you - Cam on

Nha Trang small notes

Only me to get lost in a small city during the hottest hour and to pull a muscle on the same day.

Nha Trang has not inspired me so far, perhaps tomorrow once the painkillers work. It's a bit like the Algarve in Portugal: big buildings, hotels everywhere, shops for the tourists...

After the rain in Hoi An the hot sun in Nha trang is a nice surprise. I had actually forgotten how it felt to walk around with your clothes glued to you. Silly me.

Just wanted to share a proud moment

I just managed to cycle during rush hour in Vietnam. I didn't hit any motorbikes nor did they hit me (I came close once) nor did I run over someone - one fat ass came close to knocking me to the ground but that was it.

For those out of context I learned to ride a bicycle last summer.

Also a few days ago G. taught me how to ride a motorbike. I didn't go past 2nd gear but it was great. Let's hope he remembers to send me the pictures once he's back in Malaysia. Yes, I think he will read this. :P

Nha trang here I go

As you read this I am on one of the seats above on a sleeping bus to Nha Trang. I'm pretty sure I won't be enjoying the ride thanks to the Vietnamese bus drivers. The trip will be over 10 hours long.

Here are some more photos and notes from Hoi An:

This is has to be the town with more art galleries I ever saw. It's just one after the other. It gives so much more colour to the streets to have aquarels all over the place.

For the first time ever I am sorry I am travelling with a backpack, I wanted to buy some silk clothes (in the West we really need to learn how to sow with silk, I've seen gorgeous things here), some engraved chopsticks and bowls and some traditional paper lamps.

Hoi An had Japonese traders, French and Chinese businessmen and while taking in a little bit from all the other cultures has still the singular Vietnamese touch.

I really want to come back again.

Some tips to travel cheaply in Vietnam

Bargain. Smile. Bargain (remember that honest people deserve to be paid for their work and how much the product is in your home country, I've seen people argue fiercly over 0.25E).


Eat on the street stalls and "snack bars" instead of restaurants. It's also usually more authentic.


In hostels and hotels (hard to tell the difference sometimes) take a fan room instead of an AC one. The difference is small, from 12 dolars to 9 for example, but it's in the little things that you save.
Before taking up the room ask if breakfast is included. Not included? Ask if it can be. See if they have free internet for guests.


Team up with another backpacker for part of the way, you can split the room costs and other stuff. Check if you get along with the person, if you like them otherwise you'll go crazy. Check if they don't snore. I have a 3 second rule: I look into someone's eyes and count to 3, if for some reason I feel I can't trust them or don't like them - no matter how nice they are, no matter how logicallly it doesn't make sense - I stay away.


Get a open bus ticket. It's a great system they have here, you pay around 25e for a trip from Hanoi to Saigon (see in the map, it's a big trip) with stops on the way. You can choose where to stop and when, there are no dates on the ticket, if you like a place you can stay for weeks, if you don't like it you can leave on the following bus. I am using the one from Sinh cafe (there are sooo many fake sinh cafe, it's ridiculous).


At the end of the day see if it's worth saving those 2e, if it's something you can't get back home, if it's something you always wanted to do etc Because even if they are overcharging you, it's still going to be a lot cheaper than back at home. If you have some tips I overlooked, by all means let me know.

Still in Hoi An, Vietnam

What can I say? When I like a place, I like a place. Tomorrow I'll just walk around town and perhaps leave the following morning to Nha Trang. Let's hope the rain stops.

The old town is charming day and night.
It is Unesco heritage and it seems to be well taken care of.

Cao lau. Typical from Hoi An. Noodles with pork and coreander, lime leafs and other herbs.

Grilled fish in a banana leaf with onions, garlic and lemon grass. It tasted quited sweet.
It was just a bit on the small side.

Today me and Gene rented a motorbike and went to see a bit of the countryside. It was great. Well, apart from the heavy rain, the insane bus drivers (scary insane bus drivers) and the numbness of our bottoms after a few hours.

It was wonderful. I think I am falling in love with Vietnam.


We went to see the ruins of the Hindu temple of My Son. It is a huge complex with lots of cute benches to rest and enjoy the scenery.

I must say, Vietnam is a great place for my ego, women here keep repeating that I'm beautiful and that my eyes and smile are gorgeous. Funny that it's exactly what I think of them... If you ever come to Vietnam just smile and wait for their return, it will amaze you.